FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

 

You’ve got cast iron, but you’ve also got questions about how to use and care for it. You’re in the right place! Below are answers to the most common questions I get asked. If you have another question about cast iron care, feel free to contact us!

 
  • Seasoning is a natural non-stick coating that is added to cast iron by bonding oil to the surface of the cookware at a specific temperature through a process called polymerization. Seasoning also helps to prevent rust and improves the overall performance of the cookware.

  • The temperature needed to create seasoning depends on the type of oil used. A very thin layer of oil or balm should be baked onto the pan at 20 to 30 degrees above the smoke point of the oil being used. For Trailside Table seasoning balm, heat to at least 450 degrees F.

  • Many types of oil or fat can be effectively used to season cast iron if applied and maintained correctly. Many people have personal preferences for the oil they use, so it may be worth trying a few different options to see what works best for you.

    We prefer to use grapeseed oil in our products because we have found it to have the best results when it comes to providing a durable seasoning layer. Trailside Table seasoning balm is made of a combination of grapeseed oil and plant-based wax. The grapeseed oil has a relatively high smoke point and a high polyunsaturated fat content, providing lots of opportunities for the baked-on oil to bond with the iron. The wax helps with oil distribution and adherence.

  • Flaxseed oil is often recommended because it can create a hard black layer of seasoning when properly applied and baked onto the cast iron. While it can look perfect at first, it does not hold up well over time. In addition, when not stored properly, unused flaxseed oil can go rancid quickly. It also tends to be rather expensive. We only recommend using flaxseed oil for display pieces, though other oils would work as well.

  • There are two reasons that the cookware can get sticky when seasoning:
    1) the balm was applied too thick, and
    2) it was baked at too low of a temperature.

    I know folks say to never let soap touch your cast iron, but this is one of the times I actually like to use it. The sticky stuff is unpolymerized oil, meaning it has started the seasoning process, but is basically going bad before fully bonding to the iron. Use hot water, a little soap dish soap ( I use dawn), and a soft scrubby (I use the blue, no scratch sponges) to give the pan a good cleaning. Dry well. If it still feels sticky at this point, throw it in the oven again, but at a higher temperature. If you have access to an oven thermometer, use it to make sure you're at or above the recommended temperature. I have found that sometimes ovens lie and don't get as hot as we set them to, so it's good to check.

    Moving forward for future layers of seasoning you should apply the oil or seasoning balm as thin as possible. You can even apply it and then use a second rag to wipe off as much as you can. Trust me, there's still plenty applied. When you bake it, use the thermometer again to make sure the oven is hot enough, or bump the temp up an extra 25-30 degrees, just in case.

  • Yes, you can, but you need to do it gently! The main concerns with a glass cooktop are damage due to dropping, scratching, and uneven heat distribution. All of these are avoidable if you cook carefully. Choose a flat bottomed pan (one without a heat ring) and use a burner that matches the size of the pan, then pre-heat slowly. When cooking, avoid moving the pan around in order to prevent scratches. Use a high-quality pan holder when you place and lift the pan from the cooktop, and use both hands if an assist handle is available.

    If you’re still concerned about cooking with cast iron on your glass cooktop you could consider getting a heat diffuser to use as a buffer between the cooktop and your pan. You could also try using a carbon steel pan, which has some of the same qualities of cast iron, but is much lighter.

  • Yes, cast iron cookware works on induction cooktops! Induction works by creating an electromagnetic field to heat the cookware directly without the use of a traditional heating element. This means that it can only be used with ferrous (iron-containing) metals, which are inherently magnetic. Just remember that induction cooktops are made of glass, so the recommendations for cooking on glass cooktops apply here as well.

  • This is a hotly debated topic, but the short answer is yes, you can use a small amount of mild dish soap to clean your cast iron. The soap will wash away any unpolymerized oil (whatever hasn’t been converted into seasoning), but will likely leave your pan looking a little dull. After the pan has been thoroughly dried, it’s a good idea to add a little bit of seasoning oil to the cooking surface and heat it on the cooktop until it just starts to smoke.

  • Yes, it is perfectly safe to clean your cast iron without using soap. In fact, many cast iron pan fans only use warm water and a gentle scrubber, like a natural fiber brush or a chain mail scrubber. I prefer to use one of the scrubbers mentioned for large or stuck on food, then follow up with a little bit of conditioning scrub. Our conditioning scrub contains salt, which is naturally a mild antiseptic and helps to scrub and absorb food and sauce remaining in the pan. It also contains grapeseed oil, which, when heated, helps to enhance the seasoning on your cook surface. The process of heating to or above typical cooking temperatures also kills bacteria.

  • No, you don't need to season your cast iron every time you cook with it. After cooking, simply clean the pan using your preferred method and make sure to dry it thoroughly. It’s a good idea to lightly oil the pan and return it to the stovetop until it just starts to smoke to maintain and enhance your seasoning. Full re-seasoning is only necessary if the seasoning wears thin from excessive heat or scrubbing, or if you are having issues with rust.

  • Cast iron is extremely resilient, rust and carbon buildup can be easily remedied as long as you take care during the restoration process. The process for removing carbon buildup differs from that needed to remove rust in most cases. The guidelines below are a starting point for carbon and rust removal. Make sure to thoroughly research your chosen restoration method before proceeding.

    In general, there are three steps needed to fully restore cast iron cookware:

    1. Remove carbon buildup: This can be done using steel wool and a stiff brush and/or by using a lye-based removal technique. Extreme caution should be used when working with lye. Use long gloves and safety goggles regardless of if you are using an aerosol can of lye-based oven cleaner or a lye bath. When using a lye bath, make sure to NEVER add water to lye. Always add lye to water.

    2. Remove rust: This can be done by scrubbing thoroughly or by using a solution of equal parts vinegar and water. Scrubbing is typically all that is needed for surface rust removal, and our conditioning scrub does a great job of removing light surface rust while applying oil and preventing flash rust. A vinegar solution should only be used in severe rust cases and should be used with extreme caution. The solution cuts through rust, but can also damage the iron if left too long.

    3. Re-season: Apply oil or seasoning balm all over the cookware in a very thin layer, wiping off excess. Place the cookware in a cool oven and set the temperature to 20 to 30 degrees above the smoke point of the oil used. Bake for one hour, turn off the oven, and allow the cookware to cool before handling. You can repeat this process as many times as you like, but 3 layers is a good starting point.